While Kolkata transforms into a dazzling kaleidoscope of theme pandals and artistic marvels during Durga Puja, there’s a quieter, profoundly traditional, and utterly enchanting side to the festivities that offers a truly unique insight into Bengal’s rich heritage: the Bonedi Barir Durga Puja.
“Bonedi Bari” refers to the ancestral homes of Kolkata’s aristocratic and affluent families – the erstwhile Zamindars, merchants, and influential figures of the British colonial era. For centuries, these families have celebrated Durga Puja within their grand mansions, meticulously preserving age-old rituals, customs, and artistic styles passed down through generations. Visiting these homes during Puja is like stepping back in time, offering an intimate glimpse into a bygone era of grandeur and deep devotion.
A Journey Through History and Tradition
Unlike the bustling community pujas (Barowari Pujas) known for their elaborate themes and modern artistry, Bonedi Barir Durga Puja prioritize tradition above all else. Here’s what makes them so special.
Age-Old Idols and "Ekchala" Tradition
Many Bonedi Baris still adhere to the ‘Ekchala’ style of idol making, where Durga and her children (Lakshmi, Saraswati, Kartik, and Ganesha) are placed on a single, unified platform with a semi-circular backdrop (Chaalchitra). The idols often retain unique features passed down for centuries, from specific facial expressions to the traditional ‘Daker Saaj’ (decorations made of silver foil). You might even spot a lion resembling a horse (ghotok shingho) in some! The symbolic tradition of Bonedi Barir Durga Puja.
The "Thakur Dalan"
The heart of a Bonedi Barir Durga Puja is the ‘Thakur Dalan’ – the spacious, often ornate, public courtyard or hall within the ancestral home where the idol is installed and rituals are performed. These dalans, with their grand pillars and intricate architecture, are a sight to behold, reflecting a blend of Bengali and European influences.
Unique Rituals and Customs
Each Bonedi Bari often has its own distinctive rituals and traditions. You might witness.
Kumari Puja: The worship of a young, pre-pubescent girl as a manifestation of the Goddess.
Dhuno Porano: Married women performing a mesmerizing ritual balancing burning incense (dhuno) in their hands, sometimes even on their heads, as an offering.
Arati and Dhunuchi Naach: The rhythmic ‘dhak’ drums accompanying the evening ‘arati’ (light offering) and the energetic ‘Dhunuchi Naach’ – a devotional dance performed holding burning incense burners.
Specific Bhog Offerings: Unique vegetarian and non-vegetarian offerings (depending on the family’s traditions) are prepared and offered to the Goddess daily.
Sindoor Khela: On Vijaya Dashami (the last day), married women bid farewell to the Goddess by smearing vermilion (sindoor) on the idol and then on each other, symbolizing marital bliss and longevity.
Famous Bonedi Bari's to Visit (and what makes them unique)
Sabarna Roy Choudhury Family (Barisha)
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CTdxyLNEC1zWHQNu8
Barisha Baro Bari Rd, Bose Para, Purba Barisha, Kolkata, West Bengal 700008
Located in Barisha, Sakher Bazaar
Arguably the oldest Durga Puja in Kolkata, dating back to 1610, even before the city was formally founded! The Aatchala Durga Puja here is a pilgrimage for many, showcasing deeply rooted traditions.
Sovabazar Rajbari (Raja Nabakrishna Deb’s Palace)
https://maps.app.goo.gl/mGg6HZMxBrzVpks56
33 to 36 Raja Nabakrishna Street, Sovabazar, Kolkata, West Bengal 700004
Started in 1757, this puja is historically significant, as it’s said that Lord Clive and Warren Hastings were invited here. The idol often features a horse-like lion.
Jorasanko Shib Krishna Daw Bari
https://maps.app.goo.gl/FG19gPGXyju3faJt9
12, Shib Krishna Daw Ln, Raja Katra, Singhi Bagan, Jorasanko, Kolkata, West Bengal 700007
Known for its exquisite ‘thakur dalan’ and the idols adorned with opulent gold and silver jewelry. This Puja dates back to 1840 and is a visual treat.
Pathuriaghata Khelat Ghosh Bari
https://maps.app.goo.gl/a29JeHAxnyBAnTU26
69, Pathuria Ghat St, Malapara, Santoshpur, Jorabagan, Kolkata, West Bengal 700006
Features a grand mansion with an impressive ‘Thakur Dalan’ and elaborate celebrations. The ceremonial washing of the ‘Naba Patrika’ (nine leaves) is performed in-house.
Latu Babu & Chhatu Babu’s Puja (Ramdulal Nibas)
https://maps.app.goo.gl/t1M3ZG2k4fAFHbDW8
67, Abhedananda Rd, Maniktala, Girish Park, Kolkata, West Bengal 700006
Started in 1770 by the famous businessman Ramdulal Deb (Sarkar), this puja in a striking red building is known for its traditional grandeur.
Rani Rashmoni Bari (Janbazar)
https://maps.app.goo.gl/RbN2CcEAGUw8NSxL8
18, Rani Rashmoni Rd, Esplanade, Dharmatala, Kolkata, West Bengal 700072
Though now divided among descendants, the pujas in the various branches of Rani Rashmoni’s family home continue to uphold her spiritual legacy.
Mallick Bari (Bhowanipore)
https://maps.app.goo.gl/8FMPRHrK2CKE3vG98
25A,C, Mohini Mohan Rd, Jadubabur Bazar, Bhowanipore, Kolkata, West Bengal 700020
This South Kolkata family has been worshipping the Ekchala Durga since the 15th century, maintaining strict Vaishnav traditions and vegetarianism during the Puja days.
Tips for Visiting
Guided Tours: Consider joining an organized “Bonedi Barir Puja Parikrama” tour. These tours provide comfortable transport, often include meals, and most importantly, offer guided insights into the history and significance of each household, often ensuring smoother access to the private areas.
Timing is Key: While you can visit from Sasthi (6th day) to Navami (9th day), Asthami and Nabami often see the most elaborate rituals and larger crowds. Early mornings are usually less crowded.
Embrace the Atmosphere: Beyond the visuals, soak in the sounds of ‘dhak,’ the fragrance of incense, and the palpable sense of devotion that permeates these historic homes.
Experiencing Bonedi Barir Durga Puja is not just sightseeing; it’s an immersive cultural and spiritual journey that offers a profound understanding of Kolkata’s soul. It’s where the heart of Bengal’s grandest festival truly beats, in echoes of centuries past. Don’t miss this unique opportunity to witness tradition come alive!